Style Weekly dines at the Pig & Pearl

Bacon with a side of bacon.

February 7, 2014; 2:32 PM • by Richard Hayes

When I first heard about the pork centric concept of the Pig & Pearl I was ecstatic. Despite my excitement I have yet to dine there and for that I blame RVA’s need to open a new restaurant every week.

Luckily there are plenty of other folks that have time and in fact get paid to dine at all the local establishments. Style Weekly went to the Pig & Pearl and came away disappointed.

Salt and vinegar wings ($10) are tiny, not in portion size — the wings and drums themselves. The accompanying onion dip is great with a side of waffle fries ($5). The big pig ($12) is sliced roast pork, bacon and spicy relish on a french roll. It arrives dry and missing bacon and relish. Au jus adds moisture but little else. The Southern gentleman burger ($12) is the leader, though it too arrives without a few of the promised menu components: fried green tomatoes and pimento cheese. The ground beef and bacon are adequate while the bourbon blackstrap molasses barbecue is a beacon of light on the so-so brioche.

Photo: Pig & Pearl