Times-Dispatch roams the Kitchen
Kitchen 64 gets a second print review in a week several months into its run as one of North Side’s most popular restaurants, as the Times-Dispatch’s Weekend food critic cheers its arrival on the dining scene: After a few visits, I’ve determined Kitchen 64 is not perfect, is never going to be perfect but couldn’t be […]
Kitchen 64 gets a second print review in a week several months into its run as one of North Side’s most popular restaurants, as the Times-Dispatch’s Weekend food critic cheers its arrival on the dining scene:
After a few visits, I’ve determined Kitchen 64 is not perfect, is never going to be perfect but couldn’t be more perfect for the neighborhood. The food is down to earth, the vibe electrifying, and, for many, it represents the dawn of a new North Side.
Each of my visits has brought newfound loves and “never order agains,” but the menu is so extensive — from a pastramiand kraut-topped dog to filet mignon — that it’s hard not to find a favorite.
We gave Kitchen 64 a trial run one sunny Tuesday around 8 p.m. The wait was half an hour, so we wedged in at the bar and scanned the short wine list ($6 to $7 a glass, $23 to $44 a bottle) before scoring a coveted patio table.
Appetizers range from everyday to eclectic, including our shrimp and Gorgonzola in phyllo ($8.95). It wasn’t easily shareable, but it was darn good.
A pan lined with flaky phyllo was filled with a gooey hodgepodge of melted Gorgonzola, garlic cream sauce, cherry tomatoes and jumbo shrimp. Think swanky chicken pot pie in reverse.
We returned at 7 p.m. the following Friday with friends, surprised to snag a booth quickly. Soon, the place was slammed.
Almost any time of day, Kitchen 64’s interior is abuzz with life. Pale wood and neon lights brighten the high-ceilinged space as a kinetic mix of conversation and commotion drowns out above-bar flat screens.
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