Style Reviews EAT Oregon Hill

An excerpt from the recent review in Style magazine: Pescados China Street won rave reviews and was named critics’ favorite hot spot in Style Weekly’s 2011 State of the Plate. Unfortunately, according to co-owner and chef Todd Manley, fresh seafood was too narrow and expensive for the neighborhood. So Manley engaged his staff in a […]

An excerpt from the recent review in Style magazine:

Pescados China Street won rave reviews and was named critics’ favorite hot spot in Style Weekly’s 2011 State of the Plate. Unfortunately, according to co-owner and chef Todd Manley, fresh seafood was too narrow and expensive for the neighborhood. So Manley engaged his staff in a re-branding effort, settling on a global, eclectic menu with a variety of prices.

Eat Oregon Hill maintains Pescados’ décor and most popular menu items, but expands into new dishes. Seafood continues to be the main draw, while the other offerings are uneven in concept and execution.

The menu is divided into “eat small” and “eat large,” as well as “eat your greens” and “eat your sweets.” There’s also an “eat any time” section, which I think confuses rather than clarifies the classification system. It’s clear the chefs had fun creating the menu, shown by creatively prepared dishes such as carrots sous-vide and root beer air. Culinary influences extend beyond the Latin and Caribbean flavors of Pescados, with Moroccan, Southern and even Canadian dishes. The bar features innovative cocktails and house-made sodas worth trying.

According to the reviewer, there is still room for improvement:

In three visits, every seafood dish I eat is excellent and has me planning return visits, while almost every nonseafood dish has some flaws. The decision to keep the best of Pescados was the right one, and I hope a few improvements to the rest of the menu will keep Eat Oregon Hill a neighborhood staple serving creative and inspiring food.

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