Favorites: Secco’s roasted maitake mushrooms

Secco Wine Bar approaches its fourth birthday in a couple of months, and it’s worth celebrating food that remains consistently inventive and delicious. Proof positive are the roasted maitake mushrooms ($14) that, like Secco’s entire menu, balance an assortment of flavors from herbaceous to earthy, and vegetal to meaty (though the dish is vegetarian). Rich mushrooms share a bowl with a seared polenta cake, local kale, and a zesty almond gremolata, all soaking up the lip-smacking goodness of a sun-dried tomato jus.

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