Style’s critic praises Tastebuds’ expansion
Style Weekly’s Brandon Fox, a Northside resident herself, had plenty of praise for the newly expanded Tastebuds American Bistro on MacArthur Avenue: Tastebuds’ golden beet salad isn’t particularly original but is full of apples and tangy blue cheese, although not nearly enough greens. The fried oysters crunch delicately but the black-eyed peas beneath them need some […]
Style Weekly’s Brandon Fox, a Northside resident herself, had plenty of praise for the newly expanded Tastebuds American Bistro on MacArthur Avenue:
Tastebuds’ golden beet salad isn’t particularly original but is full of apples and tangy blue cheese, although not nearly enough greens. The fried oysters crunch delicately but the black-eyed peas beneath them need some additional help, flavor-wise, and the tiny tomatoes can’t quite do the job.
The herbed ricotta crepe with roasted vegetables also needs some intervention to prevent blandness, and the shrimp fra diavolo, while spicy, limps along without an adequate amount of salt. In fact, I think that might be another way Tastebuds pinches pennies. Salt, in just about every dish, seems to have gone the way of rich, self-satisfied investment bankers.
However, it should be pointed out, there is a saltshaker on every table. The crab risotto cake that comes with the shrimp, although not very seafood-like, is improved immensely with a little salt, and the wild salmon, so easy to overcook and yet still moist when it arrives at your table, is transformed. Even the braised chicken quesadilla comes alive when you pry open the tortilla and lavish the interior with a couple of much-needed shakes.
You can leave the pizza alone, though, because it’s just fine the way it is. The burger is worth coming early for and you really ought to hustle in your family members so you can get one whether they’re hungry or not. It comes on a soft bun and seeps juices all over the oniony potato-leek hash browns that sit in a crisp triangle next to it.
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