The weekend guide to Richmond
An ultimate 72-hour summer excursion in three movements
The prospect of narrowing Richmond activities down to the most important is a difficult one to confront, as it necessitates a clash between “fun things” and “things that your life depends on.” Then of course, the questions creep in. Is this a guide for myself, if I had only one weekend left in Richmond? Or for the general public at large? Or for a friend’s first visit here? If it’s for a friend, what kind of person are they? A shopper? A lover of history, or art? Only one rule seemed clear: avoid the West End at all costs! You can eat at Applebee’s and see homogenous apartment complexes in any town in the Union. Below I have endeavored to funnel a completely unrealistic amount of activity into the small droplet of a single weekend in an effort to present the most comprehensive list possible. Thank goodness we Richmonders have the luxury of spreading this schedule out over a little more time. And if you do share this list with guests, tell them who the streets are named after. If you don’t know, find out. This is your town. Be your own kind of tourist here, every day.
Friday: Southern exposure
- 8am – 9am: Breakfast at Perly’s. Diner / sandwich shop with cozy booths and delicious croissants. A Richmond tradition since well before any of us knew what “retro” meant.
- 9am – 11am: Valentine Richmond History Center. Of all the museums, this one comes closest to capturing what this city is all about. Do not forego the tour of the Wickham house, the loveliest representation of Regency-era living in town. The back garden is sublime.
- 11am – 1pm: Museum of the Confederacy. The highlight is a tour of the White House of the Confederacy, which hearkens back to that magical time during which “bling” meant flocked velvet wallpaper and gilded mirrors. Inside the museum itself, don’t miss the replica of Lee’s tent (complete with the man’s own boots), beautiful old uniforms, and the soldiers’ accounts in their own words. This is a rare chance to focus on who the soldiers were and why they fought as opposed to what started the war.
- 1pm – 2pm: Lunch at Comfort. Exactly what it says: southern-fried comfort food of the finest degree. Highest priorities include the catfish and the squash casserole.
- 2pm – 3pm: Virginia State Capitol. Stark and white, the Greek Revival building that Jefferson designed makes an impressive picture as it rises over greyish downtown. Inside, enjoy an array of oil paintings of governors from years gone by and the amazing, full-size Houdon sculpture of George Washington. Pick up Virginia-shaped cookie cutters and miniature busts of Thomas Jefferson in the gift shop.
- 3pm – 5:30pm: Carytown. Richmond’s favorite shopping district. Bygones for vintage, Plan 9 for music, and World of Mirth and Mongrel for amusing gifts of all kind
- 5:30pm – 6:30pm: Pump House – 3-mile Lock Park. The abandoned 19th-century pump house doubled as a water-pumping facility and dance hall and today performs the function of making jaws drop in awe over its beauty. Gothic Revival architecture at its pointiest, grayest, and creepiest.
- 6:30pm – 8pm: Dinner at Can Can Brasserie. A new town favorite, Can Can serves French fare in posh surroundings. The fresh bread and pastries they bake are an accent to every meal.
- 8pm – 10pm: Walk Monument Avenue. Giant lit-up statues of Confederate war heroes draw many tourists and protesters alike each year. Any way you shake it, they and the beautiful homes that surround them are magnificent spectacles for an evening walk.
Saturday: Over the James
- 9am – 10am: Breakfast at 821 Cafe. The best biscuits in town await you here, as well as strong mimosas and a chance to run into everyone you know.
- 10am – 12pm: Walk and picnic at Hollywood Cemetery. From a picnic blanket on the edge of the river you can survey the entire sprawling cemetery to the north, the skyscrapers of downtown to the east, and the rapids and Belle Isle to the south. Besides dead Presidents and extravagant tombstones, solitude and beauty will be your dependable companions in this burial ground all gift-wrapped in wrought-iron gates.
- 12pm – 2pm: American Civil War Center at Historic Tredegar. The north, the south: we got into a fight. These circumstances are now presented in Richmond’s newest and shiniest museum. The best part is that it’s located on the lovely brick ruins of Tredegar Iron Works, a big part of Richmond’s industry in the Civil War era.
- 2pm – 5pm: Walk Brown’s Island and Belle Isle. On Brown’s Island, don’t miss your chance to soak up the tragedy of the city by checking out the old bridge extending south into the James. Emblazoned on the bridge are quotes from citizens as they fled flame-engulfed Richmond during the Civil War. The suspended bridge over the river to Belle Isle affords a fantastic view and is always a favorite with tourists and locals alike. On Belle Isle itself, you’ll discover that the former prison camp makes a beautiful stomping ground with its sunny rocks, stone ruins, plentiful honeysuckle, and shaded paths.
- 5pm – 7pm: Dinner at Mamma Zu: Inside the unassuming brick box that is Mamma Zu await tender pastas, flavorful sauces, and enough garlic to choke / delight a horse.
- 7:15pm – 9pm: Movie at the Byrd Theater. This 1920s gem is by far the best theater in town, peddling movies for $1.99 in an ornate setting. Bob Gulledge stuns the crowd before Saturday night movies on the pipe organ that rises out of the stage.
- 9:00pm – 11pm: Dessert and drinks at Ipanema. For dinner the vegan caesar salad will become the object of many cravings, but the homemade pies with their crispy crusts will invade your dreams as well. Drinks are at their most entertaining with all of Richmond’s beautiful and interesting people, minus the frat boy quotient.
- 8am – 9am: Breakfast at Joe’s Inn. Greasy, satisfying breakfasts at Joe’s have cured the hangovers of Fan residents for decades.
- 9am – 11am: Swimming at Pony Pasture. In the summer, one has to wake up this early to beat the crowds. Pony Pasture’s biggest attraction is the natural rapid slide that can keep a person entertained for hours.
- 11am – 12pm: Poe Museum. This place pays homage to everybody’s favorite Virginian writer. For first-timers, the incredible diorama of Richmond during Poe’s time will help you get your historical bearings.
- 12pm – 1pm: Late brunch at Avenue 805. Elegantly poached eggs in a beloved Richmond brunch spot.
- 1pm – 3pm: Reenactment of Patrick Henry’s famous speech at St. John’s Church. The old “give me liberty or give me death” routine leaves listeners as breathless now as it did over 200 years ago. Dotted throughout the congregation, others in tri-corner hats play their parts as well, giving context to Henry’s vitriol.
- 3pm – 5pm: Virginia Historical Society. Get the bigger picture at this museum dedicated to the history of Virginia. Don’t skip the gift shop, as it’s your best bet on everything from specialized books to interesting toys to historically-themed note cards.
- 5pm – 7pm: Maymont. This may be the cliché place to recommend, but with good reason. In addition to the park’s extensive, impeccably landscaped grounds (complete with Japanese and Italian gardens and a man-made waterfall), kids will love the native Virginia wildlife exhibits and history buffs will love the pristine Victorian specimen that is the Dooley house.
- 7pm – 8pm: Dinner at The Hill Cafe. If the comfortable, friendly manner of this neighborhood haunt doesn’t win you over, the meatloaf surely will.
- 8pm – 9pm: Moonlit walk around Church Hill. Without the cars parked along the streets, you’d think it was the early 19th century again. Before the western expansion of the city throughout the Victorian era, this is where it all began.
- 9pm – 11pm: Bottle of wine at Libby Hill Park. Hands down the best view of the city. As William Byrd II took in this same view circa 1730, he named it Richmond after a similar riverside location in England. Spread out a blanket and situate yourself looking westward over the lights of downtown as you celebrate your conquest of the River City.
Sunday: There and back again
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Tess Shebaylo
Tess Shebaylo is a freelance writer, crafter, history geek, and compulsive organizer. She works at Tumblr and lives in Church Hill with her daughter, Morella.
Notice: Comments that are not conducive to an interesting and thoughtful conversation may be removed at the editor’s discretion.
It’s a wonderful guide. I mean it. I will share with visitng friends and relatives. Lots of local insight.
On the other hand, and I don’t want this to sound like a personal attack, I am taking in your disclaimers at the begining, but, in a City that is mostly African American, where is the diversity? All of these places in your guide are great, but they are mostly white-owned, patroned by white people.
really wonderful. fantastic article
This is an excellent guide, but I think we as a community need to address that although 821 has delicious lunch/dinner fare, the biscuits haven’t been good for a long, long time.
Scott — Yep, that’s partly where the disclaimers come in. When asking a question or two about the assignment, I was told to make the guide with my own personal style in mind, so I put down all of my favorite places / things. I’m sure there are other awesome places / things, which is why I’d be interested to see other peoples’ guides. You up for it?
For out-of-towners and locals alike, the Shakespeare Festival at Agecroft Hall is tons of fun, and gorgeous for a picnic looking over the river. My two cents.
Great great great! I’ve only got 2 additions: When you walk Brown’s Island and Belle Isle, remember the pipeline walk along the rapids. Also, consider Croaker’s Spot as a radical alternative to Can Can.
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All that in one weekend. Awesome — but don’t forget to take Monday off.. Croaker’s Spot – I forgot all about this place. See what living in the burbs does to you!!!
You need to have a lot of money to eat out for all of your meals all weekend long! I can only treat myself to a restaurant a couple of times a month, especially if we take the kids.
Other than that, pretty good list. Some free things I do with my children (we love to “explore” during the weekend):
– Take the Floodwall tour, followed by a visit to Old Dominion Railway Museum on Hull Street
– Visit City Hall and take the elevator to the top floor which is in Viewing Deck with that provides a stunning panorama of the city
– Bring a picnic lunch and enjoy the rope swing at the river by Tredegar
– Instead of dinner at an expensive restaurant, go for dessert such as ice cream at the coffee shop (such as Cross Roads or Captain Buzzys – my favorite)
– Pack up the kid’s bikes and visit the BMX park off of Government Road or play frisby golf in the disc golf course adjacent to the BMX park
– There’s bound to be a festival somewhere in Richmond during the summer – seek it out and attend!
Great post, thanks for writing it. BTW how do you manage to stay on schedule? oh, yeah, I guess you don’t have to prod a 3-year-old along to hurry-it-up.
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One block from St. John’s Church, visit the Eric Schindler Gallery (EST. 1960), Richmond’s oldest still operating commercial gallery. You’ll find Richmond’s finest artists there.
The bottle of wine part at Libby Hill Park from 9-11 p.m. — isn’t that the part of the schedule where you get gangraped and your companion is beaten and tied up?
How is the community going to address your issues w/the biscuits at 821? You want to hold a protest march at Monroe park? Maybe we can get a petition going? How about advising the community to address more important issues than biscuits? Yeah, that one sounds right.